tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-44740008683305403332024-03-05T11:10:40.753+00:00Travels with my MotorhomeMotorhome Travellers Tales from home, Europe & further affieldmuddybootshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01117980616235810426noreply@blogger.comBlogger47125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4474000868330540333.post-41874157575368294472016-01-26T16:46:00.003+00:002016-01-26T16:46:48.481+00:00wandering about in Brittany<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<u><b>June 2015</b></u></div>
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<u><b>Mont St Michel</b></u></div>
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Our route took us onward & westward aiming to stop overnight at the aire at Mont St Michel. Wrong. </div>
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We had last visited Mont St Michel back in the early 1990s. We had driven along the causeway & parked in the car park & then proceeded to explore. </div>
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On approaching the tourist honey pot, things were somewhat changed. Roads barred, new signs, swish buses & huge car parks. You can no longer drive up to Mont St Michel. It has been 'themed'. Yes there is still an aire in the new car park but at 20 euros l don't think so.</div>
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A quick check in our Vicarious Books French Aires book, suggested [ as did some signage] a new aire at Beauvoir [ GPS: N 48.59429, W -1.51206 N 48°35'39", W -1°30'43"]. The site costs 12.5 euros which includes electrics, water & wifi. It is spacious & has direct access to the myriad of cycleways which include the route to Mont St Michel itself. </div>
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Mont St Michel is undergoing mammoth transformations, the rock is set to once again become an island, an elevated causeway, environmentally friendly buses and wooden board walks are turning the place into something more akin to Disneyland. It all seems very un-French. You are not even permitted to cycle along the board walk between the hours of 10 am & 6 pm.<br />
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Once inside the walls, the place hadn't changed much in the intervening years. Loads of eateries. Loads of tourists. Loads of 'tat' shops.<br />
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Large earth movers were busy in the bay excavating tonnes of sand & mud, making way for the sea to once again reclaim the shallow bay.</div>
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Views from the walls gave an excellent viewpoint to watch the engineering challenges.<br />
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<br />muddybootshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01117980616235810426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4474000868330540333.post-17950287649001847302015-11-19T15:21:00.000+00:002015-11-19T15:21:00.069+00:00It's June so we're off via Hull<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<u>June 2015</u></div>
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As May passed & we merged into June, the weather started to improve, longer days, sunshine & time to travel. The two week tour was planned to see us heading across the North Sea then northern France to spend time exploring Brittany & visiting old sailing haunts from BH [before husband].</div>
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As is usually, well, always, the case we drove the 20 miles or so to Hull & the P & O ferry terminal. All very civilised nothing too stressful, a lovely evening with a calm crossing forecast. <br />
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I think that the crossing was perhaps one of the best so far, not exactly cruising, bearing in mind this is a ferry not the Canberra, but it was fascinating watching the banks of the Humber slipping by as we tucked into our evening meal in the Pride of Bruges Brasserie & washed down with a glass or 3 of Pinot Noir.<br />
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Disembarking the ferry the following morning at Zeebrugge, the main port for Belgium, saw us speeding along the autoroutes heading westward to Heurteauville, Normandy via the amazing Pont du Brotonne. This is an architecturally amazing suspension bridge crossing the River Seine, probably best photographed from the side view as opposed to just starting to cross? <br />
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Once across the bridge, the pace slows considerably as you enter the unspoilt countryside of the Boucles de la Seine Normande National Park.<br />
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So for our first night in France we returned to one of our regular overnight stops at the privately owned Aire Camping-cars Les Cerisiers, Heurteauville situated on the banks of the river seine west of Rouen. We find this a pretty good spot to stay for our 1st night away as there are electric hook ups so that if there is a problem with anything we have back-up. The price per night is 11 euros which includes a large punnet of fresh cherries. Nice.muddybootshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01117980616235810426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4474000868330540333.post-48295129769688057262015-11-07T12:03:00.005+00:002015-11-07T12:03:58.799+00:00Moving Fast Forward<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
Look, I'm catching up, we're almost up to date!</div>
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Fast forward, April 2015. Spring felt as though it was in full flood as we headed down to Cambridge for a few nights at the Caravan Club site. The reason behind the trip out was to go & have a nose around <a href="http://www.iwm.org.uk/visits/iwm-duxford" target="_blank">the Imperial War Museum, Duxford</a> which was also hosting a classic car auction.</div>
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I must confess to having plenty of time for classic aircraft AND motorbikes, thanks to my late father who was a keen private pilot & a former 'ton-up-kid' well into middle age. So l grew up surrounded by DH chipmunks, Austers, Norton & Scott motorbikes.<br />
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The aircraft museum itself was stuffed to the gunnels with aircraft of all ages & types, dust as well l noted. Concorde was fascinating, l can remember it flying over Cheltenham on test runs as a child, everyone running out into the road pointing to the heavens gasping 'look, it's CONCORDE'.<br />
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The car & motorbike auctions could have been slightly boring, but all l did was annoy husband by pointing to this marque or that explaining 'dad had one of those & one of those'.<br />
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One of my father's last bikes was a Manx Norton, he bought this just as the law changed & helmets became compulsory, much to his displeasure. He purchased a helmet disguised as a flat cap & greatly enjoyed thumbing his nose whenever he was pulled over by the boys in blue for not wearing a helmet.</div>
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I was quiet emotional when l saw this aircraft, beautifully restored by the way, l learnt to fly in this, a de Havilland Chipmunk. I remember doing a 'wing-over' above Newent Parish Church! I think l wrote in my log book, 'don't fly upside down as money will fall out of your pocket'. Whilst reminiscing, l can remember flying in the front seat to Le Touguet via Gatwick, where we put on life jackets, & somehow l had managed to turn off the RT, so here we were coming in on finals, with no radio contact with the control tower, dad completely unaware that the radio was turned off, that is until a Boeing 707 cracked through telling us to turn our radio ON! I really enjoyed my large bowl of shrimps at Le Touquet airport!</div>
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Dad's first plane was an Auster, and there was a lovely concours condition one here. It was really something to chat to the owner discussing planes with tail wheels.<br />
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I'm always confused by April's weather, you always expect the worst but more often than not are pleasantly surprised. Here it was then, blue skies & almost tee shirt weather, almost but not quiet!<br />
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Whilst in the area, we also visited <a href="http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/audley-end-house-and-gardens" target="_blank">Audley End</a> having to enter the grounds via the exit as the impressive gate house was built long before the days of motorhomes & coaches!<br />
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Not liking to stay too long in one place, we headed eastwards visiting historic sites en-route to the coast.. <a href="http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/framlingham-castle/" target="_blank">Framlingham Castle</a> was gloriously spooky despite the lovely spring day & blossom loaded trees.<br />
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The night's stop was right on the coast at the CC site at the interestingly named Kessingland. Out of season this had the feel of a remote & desolate place, but in fact was as fascinating one. A wide shingle beach, nature reserves & wide open skies makes this place truly magical, though, perhaps not in high season.<br />
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Onwards now, towards home. There are so many historical & archaeological sites in East Anglia. New day, new experience. <br />
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This time to one of the most fascinating neolithic sites in England, <a href="http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/grimes-graves-prehistoric-flint-mine/" target="_blank">Grimes Graves</a>. The long drive through the forest then across the heath, building up to an area of humps, bumps & craters.<br />
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Grimes Graves are not some vast burial ground but are in fact neolithic flint mines, where you can go don hard hats then zip down into one of the larger holes. It is mind blowing to think that these ancient miners worked by hand with reindeer antler picks. Fascinating.<br />
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So, after a night at the Thetford Forest CC site, very nice, lots of squirrels plus a few newbie motorhomers trying out their vehicles for the first time, we headed north for the A1 & home.<br />
<br />muddybootshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01117980616235810426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4474000868330540333.post-86851061556370633952015-11-05T14:58:00.000+00:002015-11-05T14:58:30.337+00:00Change of Plan - route 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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After a peaceful overnight stop parked in a walnut orchard, followed by hasty scrambling through maps, guide books & where-to-stop books, our route was radically changed. Instead of heading south from Grenoble, and the Route de Napoleon, we would skirt mountains and head, via the auto route to Valence then head south, aiming for Vaison-La-Romaine.</div>
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Getting back onto the motorway was a bit of a nasty, there were major roads works & road closures in Varces which was somewhat grisly, narrow roads, no diversion signs & a sat-nav that was having a serious breakdown as we tried to locate the way out!<br />
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Eventually, success, autoroute rejoined, dirty water emptied at an amazing motorway aires at a service station near Valences, so amazing in fact a photo was required showing the automatic water spray in actions.<br />
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The scenery was pretty dramatic, lots of rivers & towns with the name Roman in them. Soaring peaks & wooded slopes.<br />
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The evening stop was to be the aires de camping cars at Vaison. Lovely drive through the vineyards passing imposing wine Châteaux. The scenery just kept getting better, if that was possible, however, once at our destination, the aires was full, no room. Plan 2B. Get out the Caravan Club continental sites handbook. Not being one to ring & pre-book, it was a case of seeing where we could get in that was nice as in nice nice with good access for motorhomes. The eventual resting place was Camping de l'Aguette, a rather pleasant wooded site in a rural location close to the bastide village of Faucon.<br />
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The choice was a good one, if l say so myself, the staff were pleasant, the facilities good, there was free wifi & finally it was central to visiting the site of the area.<br />
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We stayed here long enough to explore the region's historic sites. The Roman city of Vaison-la-Romaine, Mont Ventoux were just breathtaking.<br />
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The countryside was awe-inspiring, jagged peaks, fields of lavender, vineyards, picturesque hill top villages, pine forests and wonderful foodie food.<br />
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The tourist season was almost over in the area, so everywhere was fairly quiet, locals chatty & even the odd American seemed to have time to chat over a glass of pastis.</div>
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The weather during our stay was warm & dry, except for the day we drove into Orange to explore the Roman Amphitheatre which was seriously wet with huge puddles everywhere. Thankfully, l always travel with wellingtons & an Aussie stockman's coat, so l was OK Jack! Did feel sorry for those tourists who had not even got an umbrella.</div>
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One of the highlights was the trip to the summit of Mont Ventoux, a scenic drive through the world famous lavender fields of Provence followed by a steep climb up, up through forests then out onto the white stone upper slopes & peak. It was amazing to watch keen cyclists straining muscles & fighting exhaustion to reach the summit, equally amazing was the sight of motorhomes driving the route.<br />
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We had planned to continue our stay by heading down to the Mediterranean, however, by the time it came to leave, the site closed at the end of September, the weather was starting to look decidedly 'iffy'. Time for Plan 3 - head home.<br />
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So, with much reluctance on my part, we said 'goodbye' to our new found Dutch friends, hooked the car onto the motorhome & began the drive home.<br />
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We followed the route of previous trips, straight up the A7, overnight stop at Beaune overlooking the vineyards, where, incidentally, we were charged extra for our car, then off again next day with an overnight stop at Chalon-en-Champagne. We rather like Chalon, the site is a municipal one, its has crap facilities, but it is well laid out, has hard standing plus the added advantage of a local chap who comes round every evening selling his own honey which is delicious.</div>
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From Chalon it is an easy drive straight through to Belgium & Zeebrugge via Lille which is always busy. </div>
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We enjoyed the trip as this was an area of France that l hadn't visited before. I loved the food shops & markets, the lovely fruity fragrances seeping through narrow streets coming from the open doors of parfumeries & then finally there was the wonderfully delicious Cotes de Rhone wine.</div>
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All in all, this is an area l would very much like to return to, especially as the wine has now all be drunk & the stock of l'occitane desperately needs topping up at French prices! </div>
muddybootshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01117980616235810426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4474000868330540333.post-91738629690942170292015-10-21T16:55:00.000+01:002015-10-21T16:55:23.219+01:00Fast Forward - Provence 2014<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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So where next? Summer came & went, 'head south young man', so we dutifully did. The plan, my plan you understand [more of that later], was to head down to southern France via the 'cheap' route, ie] autoroute toll free, read also 'it will take longer' and more 'scenic'. The route, l had discussed this with several of our visiting motorhomers - we have a CL Site - was to head through Belgium then turn right in Luxembourg city, then on down eastern France to Gap then over the mountains following the Route de Napoleon to the Gorges du Gordon. Good plan.</div>
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As you can see, to make the job of exploring narrow & bendy roads, we decided to take my smart car, which is attached via an 'a frame', along with us. </div>
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Our route to Europe, we live close to the Port of Hull, was via the P & O ferries overnight service to Zeebrugge. Often when travelling this route there are various interesting sights to gawk at, this time was no exception, there was this wonderful motor parked alongside us at customs in Zeebrugge. Only a classic gull wing mercedes! </div>
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Every year the road connections from Zeebrugge improve, thanks to ongoing upgrades, fast dual carriageways & toll-free motorway speed you on your journey. All pretty easy driving, little traffic, except round Brussels & no tolls. Our overnight stop was to be at a municipal site to the south of the city of Luxembourg which was easy to locate, although we did have to wait an hour or so until the warden returned from an extended lunch break.</div>
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If was at this point that we had our first inquisitive inspection of the A frame. This came from a German motohomer who had never seen anything like this before. Yes he'd seen cars pulled on low trailers but, as he said, 'this is so much better, l want one!'. We duly passed on details of suppliers in the UK. Keen to practise his English & in no hurry to return to his 'van, he also very helpfully recommended the very useful app, <a href="http://www.campercontact.com/en/" target="_blank">Camper Contact</a> which has details of motorhome stops, including photos & reviews [often in Dutch].</div>
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Day number 2 saw us heading into France, down A31 then branching eastwards along the E23 finally coming to an overnight halt at the almost deserted municipal camp site at Le Val-d'Ajol, a really pretty village set in a valley surrounded by the dense forests of the Vosages region. </div>
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This gave us an opportunity to take the smart car for a quick spin, it was great fun bouncing along the heavily-forested, winding mountain lanes. You could imagine ancient Celts launching attacks guerilla upon unsuspecting Roman legions very easily here! </div>
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Another long drive on day 3, the roads, well they are main roads & dual carriageways, are certainly cheaper to travel along, but, a lot of rounding of roundabouts & slowing down & breaking - so could this not be such a good idea? </div>
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Anyway, by the time we reached Gap, the driver, my husband, had had enough: 'autoroutes are much easier to get from A - B fast'. OK, revert to Plan 2. We stopped at a small site to the south of Gap set amongst walnut trees & fruit trees, with views up the sides of the vertical mountain side, a little claustrophobic if l am brutally honest. The host was as mad as a hatter too, certainly what you could possible term, 'a bit of a character'!<br />
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So, what next? What is Plan 2? Is there a Plan 2?muddybootshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01117980616235810426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4474000868330540333.post-62375070207737537552015-10-19T11:41:00.001+01:002015-10-19T11:41:48.090+01:00ok what has happened to my timing then? <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
Nothing like returning to a long lost blog, l ask myself, 'can l remember?', 'where did we go / stop / see?' Normally, l complete a log of where, how & when, l'm afraid l didn't do one for this trip, but, it's amazing what you can remember by just looking at photos isn't it?</div>
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Anyway, if my memory serves me well, from the rain soaked aires de camping car at Pont d'Ouilly, we continued our journey through Normandy, stopping overnight near Mortain, then westwards heading to the Brittany coast where according to BBC weather, was going to be warm, dry & sunny!<br />
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As a youngster, l had visited Carnac & Quiberon with parents and, what with me being 'tour guide', decided that it would be an interesting re-visit to the standing stones & dolman of the area. <br />
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There is something about Brittany that is timeless, the brilliant light, the blue of the sea, the fine sandy beaches. The ideal place for rockpooling, bird watching & eating fruits de mer!<br />
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So with the sat nav set to Carnac, that is where we went. Deciding to spend a few days in the sun, we booked onto a site next to the beach, watched the locals prise limpets off rocks & rake for cockles, sat in the sun & tucked in to moules frites and ice cream.<br />
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The amazing megaliths, well, these were pretty much unchanged, but, and a big but too, you can't go up to them to huge / touch / chant [?], they are fenced off, signs saying keep out & protect the wild flowers, big disappointment that. After all those millennia of people getting up close, to now being kept at arms length, tragic, mind you, the wild flowers did look nice, probably the first time ever that they had had a chance to bloom!</div>
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Out return journey took us through the centre of rural Brittany, empty roads, forest, small villages. We broke our journey at Dinan, the aires just under the viaduct, chatted an English couple who ran a small cafe & gift shop half way up a steeply cobbled road, & who took great pleasure in telling us tales of motorhomers who, on leaving the aires, proceeded to turn left UP the steep, narrow road only to find half way up they came to a grinding halt ................ it was a regular occurrence apparently, something to do with blindly following your sat nav & forgetting common sense together good old fashioned map reading!</div>
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So, that brings to a close, the first trip in the IH. Great fun, it does so help to be spontaneous. Everything more or less worked & the bits that needed fine turning or sorting out were added to the 'to do list'. <br />
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Happy Days!muddybootshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01117980616235810426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4474000868330540333.post-9451312848645263192014-08-19T12:25:00.003+01:002014-08-19T12:25:27.219+01:00A 'new' motorhome & we're off<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<b><u>May 2014</u></b></div>
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<b><u>France - Normandy</u></b></div>
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Never one to stand still for long, over the winter months & much scanning of the internet, a change in motorhome was deemed necessary, a possible downsize after seriously looking at the Shire Conversions demonstrator, Phoenix M Studio at the Harrogate Motorhome Show, then finally deciding that perhaps we would rather have a bit more space for storage in the BBQ & the other outdoor living stuff, moved onto another Yorkshire van conversion firm, IH Motorhomes, finally settling upon a 60 plate IH J500 on a mercedes base. </div>
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So that was May, now what? Ok, all essential items transferred to new machine, tow bar fitted a quick service booked in, we were ready to go somewhere. Ok, so we do 'spur of the moment' things, being only 30 minutes from the PO Ferries Terminal in Hull, a quick internet booking 2 hours before sailing saw us sitting waiting to board for the saturday evening crossing with little thought to the gale warnings being given out for the North Sea.</div>
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Boy it was winding, thump-crash-splash as the Pride of Bruges cut is way through Storm Force 10 heading to Zeebrugge. Breakfast saw only myself & a few others who were in a fit state to face the full english!</div>
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From Zeebrugge, we headed westwards hugging the coastal autoroute towards Rouen, from the hills bordering the English Channel large waves could be seen crashing onto the beaches at Boulogne. </div>
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Our ultimate goal was Brittany, so the first night's overnighter was the aires de camping car at Heurteauville, <a href="http://aire-les-cerisiers.pagesperso-orange.fr/" target="_blank">Les Cherisiers</a>, on the banks of the river Seine. </div>
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Hmn, not always a good idea to set off without a full check of the on board equipment, TV not working properly then the onboard gas tank gauge showed 'empty' having been 'full' on leaving the UK. The TV wasn't a problem but the gauge was. </div>
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We had purchased the European adaptors, watched how to fill up your tank on youtube, but in reality we decided that after several attempts, the gauge must be faulty. So that took up 24 hours trying to work out what was wrong or not. The weather was rather wet too, a very wet night was spent on the municipale site at Vimoutiers parked not on the grass pitches but on the access road, a sensible decision as another UK motorhome on deciding to park on the grass pitch, sank in the saturated lawned area. The site itself was very tidy with the warden being somewhat stressed with the thought of damaged pitches!</div>
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Moving onwards to a slightly brighter morning, we battled on towards Falaise where a lull in the weather allowed us to revisit William the Conqueror's castle, which is still undergoing heavy restoration from the WW2 D-Day battle.</div>
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The evening's night stop was on the Aires at Pont d'Ouilly,with its hedge d, hard standing pitches on the banks of the possibly rising waters of the River Orne.</div>
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Due to the weather we didn't explore the small town, but the drive from Falaise through the the Suisse Normande was rather scenic when breaks in the weather allowed the sun to shine!</div>
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So our first 3 nights were spent in Normandy, an area we had last visited back in the early 1990s & it was interesting how the French infrastructure has developed at an alarming rate in those intervening years, high speed road access with motorways & dual carriageways linking most towns in the Calvados region, by-passing the half-timbered villages.</div>
muddybootshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01117980616235810426noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4474000868330540333.post-65639437196924047512014-07-17T14:20:00.001+01:002014-07-17T14:20:43.636+01:00 The last few days<u><b>Week 3</b></u><br />
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<u><b>South Island</b></u><br />
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<u><b>Thursday to Saturday 7th - 9th February 2013</b></u><br />
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For the last few days of our Big Adventure, we more or less stayed put, enjoying the extremely warm weather & breathtaking views of the Banks Peninsula. </div>
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We set sail for an morning's sail hoping to see some wild life, nothing about much except jolly boats setting out for the shore despatched from a large Australian cruise ship.<br />
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We ate out each evening, sampling the local sea food, pinot noir & lamb.<br />
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We explored the back roads & hidden coves on the pacific coast.<br />
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We negotiated sharp corners & steep inclines of the peninsula's country roads.<br />
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Then finally after catching up with lunch at a friend's in Christchurch we returned our motorhome back to Kia & after a last minute repacking of overweight hold luggage, boarded our flights back to the UK, this time completed the round the world flight, Christchurch, Auckland,, Los Angeles, London Heathrow then finally Leeds Bradford.</div>
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So to sum up, the trip was amazing, the people, the scenery the ease of everything. You can go on organised tours or you can go DIY, either way this really is a trip of a lifetime. Allow plenty of time so as the journey is enjoyable after all this is a holiday not an endurance trip. The highlight for me was the west coast of south island, a landscape that sends tingles down the spine.</div>
muddybootshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01117980616235810426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4474000868330540333.post-31572850741273070732014-06-15T12:18:00.000+01:002014-06-15T12:18:13.256+01:00A very long way<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<b><u>Week 3</u></b></div>
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<b><u>South Island</u></b></div>
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<b><u>Lake Pukaki to Banks Peninsula</u></b></div>
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<b><u>Wednesday 6th February 2013</u></b></div>
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We woke up once again to those fabulous crystal blue skies & matching blues of Lake Pukaki. The views across the lake towards the mighty Mount Cook were awe-inspiring & boy, were we lucky in having such clear views of the snow clad mountain.</div>
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Anyway, striking camp after breakfast our route would take us through the Southern Alps & her foothills & out across the vast Canterbury Plains.<br />
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As had been the case throughout our travels, the highways were deserted, a few cars near settlements & towns & then vast emptiness.<br />
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Hamlets named after local sheep drovers, sparsely covered parched slopes, pine copses slipped past as we headed down from 'sheep country' down in 'dairy country' that is the Canterbury Plains. Fairlie, the epicentre of dairying, was a long sprawling town of wide grass verges, cattle yards & tractors.<br />
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As we drove on wards, paddocks filled with black & white Holstein cows, grazed on the heavily irrigated pastures, swishing their docked tails in an efforts to remove the flies.<br />
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After observing some tourists leap from a hire vehicle & then watched in amazement as they proceeded to take 'selfies' of themselves with round bales of hay, we stopped off in Geraldine at the Vintage Car & Machinery Museum.<br />
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We spent 3 hours here. There were tractors.<br />
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There were cars.<br />
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There was a Harley Davidson hearse.<br />
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There was even a small bi-plane attached to the ceiling like a butterfly specimen.<br />
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Then there were the 2 old timers who enthused about all of the machinery, cars, tractors, screw, bolts etc<br />
etc.<br />
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Eventually l managed to drag Husband away & we returned to our route to meet up with friends in Akaroa on the Banks Peninsula, turning right off Route 1 shortly after crossing the bridge over the Rakaia River & its many 'braids'.<br />
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The plains gave way to hills, whilst the wide straight roads became twisty & narrow as we headed onto the Banks Peninsula, & thanks to it being Whaitangi Day the roads were chocked with day trippers heading back to Christchurch. Close encounters however with hair pin bends provided some spectacular views across the parched landscape down to the inlets below.<br />
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After a long day's drive through diverse scenery we eventually pulled up into the drive at Mount Vernon Lodge, Akaroa to be warmly greeted by firends & fellow Yorkshireman & his partner who had swapped Uk dairy farming for New Zealand dairy farming & now were embarking on a new adventure.<br />
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Today's mileage = 200milesmuddybootshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01117980616235810426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4474000868330540333.post-87021953005219488512014-06-03T15:51:00.004+01:002014-06-03T15:51:46.194+01:00An amazing drive<b><u>Week 3</u></b><br />
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<b><u>Tuesday 5th February 2013</u></b><br />
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<b><u>Arrowtown to Lake Pukaki</u></b><br />
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Sunshine, Tuesday morning the grey leaden skies returned to a glorious blue, the rain from yesterday only remembered by the large puddles. Well, l tell a slight lie, the weather had improved by the time we rolled into our overnight stop, thus enabling us to meander through the restored mining village with a distinct Lake District feel doing a bit of window shopping, huge selection of all things wool for some reason?<br />
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Anyway, l digress; we were the only rental unit on the site, and after much conversation with local motorhomers, we packed up & set off for the day's journey with the wild or free camping site at Lake Pukaki the end goal.<br />
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Today's scenic route took us along deep valley bottoms, over raging rapids & to the car park at a bungee jumping attraction. Now, those who know me, know that l have a serious problem with sheer drops; before leaving home l had thought that jumping off a bridge attached only by a large length of rubber band might cure me of the problem. Did it hell, whilst Stephen marched across the bridge, l just about managed to leave the camper, cross the car park then, very carefully making an effort to keep breathing, managed to get into the souvenir shop, even that was traumatic as the large windows looked out towards the jumping bridge & then down in to the gorge below. Needless to say, l kept my feet firmly planted on terra firma.<br />
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Our route continued through devastatingly wondrous, wild country. Past vineyards, through mountain passes, true sheep country & on into Cromwell.<br />
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As we approached the town, the fields became flatter & wider with rich agricultural land, home to large dairy herds, fields irrigated by enormous irrigation units & ongoing drilling bore holes for water very much in evidence.<br />
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Fruit farms became plentiful, & the whole area was a veritable Eden of fresh fruit & dairy. Cromwell, according to the Rough Guide, has an old town that was moved after the completion of a large dam. Unfortunately, the historic site, [think Beamish], was not as you might say, well signposted, in fact there were more signs directing you to fruit farms. well, we did eventually find the place which is obviously an ongoing project but interesting never the less.<br />
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Lunch was spent in one of the en site cafes before plunging onwards towards even more jaw-dropping scenery.<br />
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Leaving the plains behind, the landscape became more & more rugged, rolling mountain, sheep stations that seemed to be slightly lacking in sheep thanks to the down turn in the market, those sheep we did spot were mainly Marino.<br />
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We drove ever deeper into McKenzie Country until on our approach to Omarama we spotted some rather dramatic-looking cliffs, the sort of colour of kaolin & morphine medicine. After a quick study of our tourist map, a detour along back roads took us to the gate & entrance to the clay cliffs. Attached to the gate post was an honesty box with some slightly confusing instruction regarding payment, together with a group of French Tourists struggling to make sense of what to do next. <br />
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The outcome, they followed us along the bumpy, dirt track which seemed to go on for miles & miles taking us up to almost the foot of the cliffs. The final ascent was a short, steep tramp to the clay cliffs themselves, from which the views across a meandering river plain was just truly awesome.<br />
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The afternoon stretched on, the open road beckoned us once again, the feeling of remoteness was every present. We filled up at the isolated town with the intriguing name of Twizel which rhymes with Bridle, with its breathtaking views of the snow capped Mount Cook in the distance.</div>
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Finally,after a day of scenic overloads we pulled off the road to the Freedom Parking site at the alpine Lake Pukaki. The evening's backdrop was the cobalt blue waters of the Lake backed by Mount Cook. Absolute bliss.<br />
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By nightfall, there several other motorhomes had parked up, both local vans & rentals all of us drinking in the views, & as the sun finally set, were privileged to be able to enjoy the unspoilt night skies<br />
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today's mileage = 123 milesmuddybootshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01117980616235810426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4474000868330540333.post-38795522075829728252014-06-02T20:15:00.003+01:002014-06-02T20:15:58.642+01:00in which we find rain, NZ style<b><u>Week 3</u></b><br />
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<u><b>Monday 4th February 2013</b></u><br />
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<u><b>Milford Sound to Arrowtown</b></u><br />
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We had booked places with <a href="http://www.mitrepeak.com/" target="_blank">Mitre Peak</a> Cruises back in Te Anau, so Monday morning, bright & early was the day for a scenic chug down Milford Sound to gasp & be awed by the spectacular scenery of the Sound.<br />
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We were woken up with plenty of time to spare by the sound of heavy rain bouncing off the camper roof. The day's forecast was talking of a mere 15cms of rain, l was so relieved that at this point we had not chosen to kayak down the sound. The rain was still coming down in stair rods when it was getting up time, so decided to give the quick trip to the shower block a miss.<br />
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The check in time was 15 minutes before sailing [8.55am] so, intrepid travellers that we are, proceeded to drive the camper through puddles, or should l say, floods, past spontaneous waterfalls crashing from every ledge & gully by the bucketful.<br />
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Now, the walk from the car park to the quayside is about 10 minutes the bulk of which is undercover, so after kitting up in wet weather gear, we took the plunge [literally], & proceeded to splash towards the covered board walk. On arrival we quickly checked in then all 15 of us were herded to the vessel by its skipper. <br />
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Despite the truly awful weather, Milford Sound gave off an eerie atmosphere. All swirling mists & low clouds, mighty vertical cliffs soaring into the clouds with numerous waterfalls in full flood crashing into the sea below. Being a small vessel, the captain took us right inside several of the larger waterfalls & in close to the walls of the Sound which dripped in greenery. Fish could be seen swimming in the shallows at the base of the rocks, whilst sat out posing for the Tourist, were large numbers of fur seals.<br />
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The cruise lasted the morning & despite the weather, was wonderful, whilst the journey back to Te Anau was equally impressive. The dry landscape & draught-stricken rivers had become a torrent of waterfalls & wild, white water rapids.</div>
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Milford Sound is a one road in & the same route back as are many of the destinations in New Zealand, so we retraced our route back past Lake Wakatipu, through Queenstown finally pitching camp at the <a href="http://www.arrowtownholidaypark.co.nz/accommodation/index.htm" target="_blank">Arrowtown Holiday Park</a>.</div>
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today's mileage = 184 miles</div>
muddybootshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01117980616235810426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4474000868330540333.post-27612162723822233672014-03-29T17:28:00.001+00:002014-03-29T17:28:38.421+00:00Wilderness - Fjord Country <b><u>Week 3 </u></b><br />
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<b><u>Sunday 3rd February 2013</u></b><br />
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<b><u>Te Anau to Milford Sound</u></b><br />
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The guide books all tell the traveller to a] fill up with fuel & b]stock up on food, before travelling the isolated road to Milford Sound. So being pretty obliging sorts we duly did as told, but there must be a few wild men in the area, the last photo in this post is the number plate of one such intrepid local.</div>
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The road started well, with open roads, skirting Lake Te Anau, flat sheep-grazing country backed by jagged peaks.<br />
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By the time the route left the lakeside, the countryside was changing dramatically fast. Forests of dense beech & pine, boulder strewn rivers, open valley floors with tussocks of waving grasses whilst those sharp, snow covered mountains came ever closer. For Lord of the Rings buffs, you could just imagine the Riders of Rohan galloping towards you armed to the teeth. For lunch we pulled into one of the wild camping DOC sites, with the only sound coming from the adjacent cascade creek, much depleted after the long drought. </div>
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Cups & plates washed & safely stored away, we set off once again along the all but deserted road. The road by now was beginning to climb up into the high passes, offering plenty of photo stops & super wow moments. </div>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">Steep valley walls prone to rockfalls, wild looking valleys heading off into the wilderness, snow covering the shaded valleys & top most mountain tops. </span><br />
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During the drive to the Homer Tunnel, we had seen very few vehicles or people, but as we approached the tunnel mouth, a New Zealand traffic system was in place, a bored looking person with walkie talkie, controlling vehicle access on the Te Anau side. Once inside the tunnel it was clear to see why, the road is single track with the road surface being bedrock & no room for oncoming traffic. I did note that there was a similar system on the Milford Sound side.</div>
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After 800m, the road emerges high up on a steep mountain side & the route is now downhill all the way to the Sound. The road is steep, the road is very twisty & a little exciting in a motorhome, but is wider than say Wrynose Pass in the Lake District, so so long as you keep breathing then there's no problem. If however, you are of a nervous disposition, then perhaps take the tour coach or fly in to the small airfield located in a narrow valley between 2 high peaks in Milford Sound.</div>
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Before driving to Milford we had asked local NZ motorhomers about the possibility of 'wild camping' in the car park, but had been advised to park overnight at the <a href="http://www.milfordlodge.com/milford-sound-accommodation/campervan-sites?homebody" target="_blank"> Milford Lodge</a>, located opposite the tiny landing strip just before you come into Mildord Sound proper. So we did, the only hiccup was that whilst chatting to the receptionist who came from Cork, we forgot to collect our pitch number so just parked anywhere as one does, only to be disturbed by a somewhat disturbed chap greatly concerned that we had parked on His Pitch, did we move l hear your ask? Well, no, & did anything else funny happen there? well yes, we laughed very loudly at an American Couple trying to reverse a very long Apollo rental camper, the outcome could have resulted in a serious bending round a tree moment.</div>
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The mad number plate as seen in a supermarket in Te Anau.<br />
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Today's mileage = 73.60 milesmuddybootshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01117980616235810426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4474000868330540333.post-91471234264001288802014-02-20T13:42:00.001+00:002014-02-20T13:42:41.619+00:00Otago - A land of Large Lakes & Remarkable Mountains <b><u>Week 3 - South Island</u></b><br />
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<b><u>Saturday - </u></b><b><u>Boundary Creek to Te Anau</u></b><br />
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The weather was still pretty good as we left the lakeside campsite on what was the start of our third week in New Zealand. The road hugged the rugged banks of the brilliant blue waters of Lake Wanaka then in turn Lake Hawea. The whole area has a feel of total wilderness.</div>
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We caught up with civilisation again at Wanaka, a small town, the gateway to the ski slopes & adventure sports. The waterfront was a hive of activity, shops, cafes & coffee shops. Passing through the town we followed the 6 along the steadily climbing Cardrona Valley Road. Deep valleys swept through tussock grass hill sides, few trees, fewer vehicles & directional signs to ski slopes.</div>
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We had checked with some of our newly found friends about this route & had been told that travelling from Wanaka to Queenstown was fine however coming the opposite way, as can be seen from the above picture, is a no no, the steep hairpins are not really suitable for motorhomes!</div>
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Once clear of the pass & again driving along flat roads, we turned left at the Frankton roundabout, crossing the narrow bridge over the impressive Kawarau River with the amazing Remarkables mountain range in the near distance.<br />
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The highway took us along the river valley, alongside these amazing rocky mountains bordering Lake Wakatipu, a huge lake all of 80kms long. Huge.</div>
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Lunch stop was at Kingston, a small lakeside settlement at the foot of the lake, & home to a small steam railway, a cafe & motorhome park plus wonderful views.<br />
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Leaving Kingston we just had to stop to take a picture of the wheel fence outside this bungalow.<br />
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The landscape now change, the mountains were now in the distance, with the slopes being replaced by grassy fields filled with sheep, the first sheep stations we had in fact come across on our travels so far. </div>
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We passed through several farming settlements dotted throughout the plains that took us once again across towards the mountains at our overnight stop at Te Anau & the <a href="http://www.teanauholidaypark.co.nz/" target="_blank">Te Anau Lakeside Kiwi Park </a>on the shores of Lake Te Anau on the borders of Fjord Country. </div>
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The site was a large one that offered several forms of accommodation from back-pack to camping. Like all previous sites, wifi was available at a cost. The site was well positioned for the walk into the town.</div>
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Taking advantage of the wifi, a quick check was made with Trip Advisor as to which tour company to book with for the boat trip along Milford Sound, [think smaller boat the better] then booked via the on-site tourist information desk. </div>
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Supper was taken sat on a bench being stared at by red legged gulls, willing us to feed them with our blue cod & chips whilst we watched not the gulls but a coach load of Japanese busy photographing themselves before they embarked on the ferry across the lake to another glow worm dell. </div>
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<b>Today's Mileage = 170 miles</b>muddybootshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01117980616235810426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4474000868330540333.post-71547420962970019362014-02-11T11:15:00.000+00:002014-02-11T11:15:25.516+00:00It just gets better ...<b><u>Friday</u></b><br />
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<b><u>Fox Glacier to Lake Wanaka via Haast Pass</u></b><br />
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Leaving the Fox Glacier Top 10 Holiday Park, we turned right at the main junction rejoining the almost deserted Route 6 Haast Highway south.<br />
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The road took us through stunning wilderness, across wide rivers, along the shores of lakes, through forests & all the time mountain ranges creeping closer to the shoreline of the Tasman Sea.</div>
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Settlements & towns were noticeable by their absence. A few farmsteads were placed wherever there was a large enough area of flatish grassland.<br />
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The road hugged the windswept coastline, beaches littered with driftwood. We stopped mid-morning for a coffee break at Ship Cove, named after an 1855 ship wreck site. The coarse sand was strewn with huge chunks of bleached driftwood, some of which had been artfully arranged into rugged art. The colours of the ocean & sky, wood & swamp was truly amazing. Cameras were definitely on overload!</div>
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Back on the road, we crossed the longest single track bridge in New Zealand, the Callender-Hamilton Bridge, which has carefully placed passing places.<br />
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Before we turned inland to follow the Haast Pass, we stopped for lunch pulling onto yet another deserted beach at Jackson Bay. A long sandy beach, again strewn with driftwood & seaweed with large rolling waves crashing onto the strand. Pure heaven.</div>
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There are not many roads in South Island, & there are no roads further south than Haast, so all traffic must travel across to Queenstown through the mighty Haast Pass. The road follows the river which cuts through the heavily wooded slopes.</div>
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A quick stop off at the Gates of Haast, a rough & tumbling waterfall, which when we visited was suffering from a decided lack of water, New Zealand in January & February 2013 was suffering from drought conditions which were becoming more noticeable as the days passed. The scenery was spectacular, with the towering mountain peaks high above us.</div>
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Once clear of the Pass, the landscape changed to rough grasslands, Sheep Country, with the smooth curvaceous hills reminiscent of the Scottish Highlands in particularly, Glencoe. This was Makarora County as the hoarding on The Country Cafe informed us when we stopped for an ice cream cornet & fill up of diesel. This part of our journey to Lake Wanaka following many branches of the Makarora River was a little eerie. Apart from the Cafe, there was no sign of, or very little sign of, human habitation.</div>
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From the flat grasslands, the turquoise blue waters of Lake Wanaka greet you with its vast expanse of water, & it was to be by its shores that we would park up for the evening in the Department of Conservation campsite at <a href="http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-stay/conservation-campsites-by-region/otago/wanaka-makarora/boundary-creek/" target="_blank">Boundary Creek</a> This wasn't exactly Freedom Camping as we had to deposit some money into a box, & there was a loo, but it felt pretty much close to it. Interestingly, we were the only motorhome rental vehicle parked, everyone else was local, so to speak, & extremely friendly once they discovered that we had a motorhome back in the UK. So we all enjoyed a good social evening over a glass or two of the local red discussing such topics as dairy farming in NZ & european motorhomes.</div>
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Total Mileage = 133 miles </div>
muddybootshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01117980616235810426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4474000868330540333.post-3845632856635562232014-02-09T12:02:00.000+00:002014-02-09T12:02:22.556+00:00 Tramping along river beds<b><u>Thursday 31st January 2013</u></b><br />
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<b><u>Hokitika to Fox Glacier</u></b><br />
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Before travelling to New Zealand we had been told that it would be wet verging on extremely wet. The weather during our trip so far, had been hot, very hot & no rain at all. So it was as we left our friend's farm & continued on our journey south.</div>
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Our route took us along the coastal road, which was magnificently named 'The Franz Josef Highway'. The empty road took us through the forested hills of the Westland National Park, past lakes & on through the small grassy valleys dotted with dairy farms. All the time with the vast backdrop of the Southern Alps framing every picture. </div>
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Bridges took us across vast river beds carry glacier melt waters down to the Tasman Sea. Workmen with JCB & lorries removing the river stones & boulders to repair washed out roads & bridges caused by raging flood torrents from a few months ago. </div>
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The roads here are again not busy, there were no towns only a few very small villages en-route, with the area being mainly based on dairying. White painted clapboard bungalows with roses growing through picket fences.</div>
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However, all this changed as we approached the town of Franz Josef Glacier. A tourist hub for walkers, adventure seekers & general tourist. A small smattering of shops bordered the main street, coffee shops, touristy shops, supermarket & petrol station. The small town was almost heaving with visitors.</div>
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Taking the road out of Franz Josef, crossing the bridge over the Waiho River, then taking the first left takes you up to the car park for the hike up to the <a href="http://www.newzealand.com/uk/franz-josef-glacier/" target="_blank">Franz Josef Glacier.</a></div>
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It was seriously hot by now, mid afternoon. The easy trail led through the dry, rocky river bed, a sort of path had been cleared leaving a surface of loose shale. Most people had walking shoes but we did note a few people wearing 'jandals' [NZ = flip flops] & some japanese wearing ordinary shoes. </div>
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The walk itself was interesting, lots of greys interspersed with brightly coloured lichens. The glacier itself was, l think, more dramatic from the air. You couldn't walk right up to the ice itself, but l understand that there are early morning hikes up to the ice fields.</div>
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After the afternoon's exciting excursions, we returned to the campervan & proceeded with our journey down the Fox Glacier Highway, pitching camp at the <a href="http://www.top10.co.nz/parks/fox-glacier/" target="_blank">Fox Glacier Top 10 Park</a> which had as its backdrop, the Fox Glacier easily visible from our motorhome, a greyish blue smudge snaking down the mountain side. </div>
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Today's mileage = 106 miles</div>
muddybootshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01117980616235810426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4474000868330540333.post-18604098095644898282014-02-06T11:05:00.000+00:002014-02-06T11:05:17.864+00:00Boats & Jerseys <b><u>Wednesday - Continued</u></b><br />
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<b><u>Hokitika, Lake Kaniere</u></b><br />
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Our action packed day continued in full flow, we had taken to the air, tramped through forests to the Hokitika Gorge & now we all leapt into R's 'ute' to tour the farm.</div>
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As l mentioned yesterday RM had been a guest of the <a href="http://www.nfyfc.org.uk/?AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1" target="_blank">YFC</a> movement in the UK through an exchange scheme way back in 1981. Young Farmers from various countries visit host farms both here & abroad, & R stayed with my husband's family on his UK trip. </div>
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The farm itself is sited in the flat flood plains inland from Hokitika, with the farm specialising in pedigree Jersey cows.</div>
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The cows are farmed using the 'New Zealand' low input system, whereby they are farmed less 'intensively' than back home incuring fewer costs & making a healthy margin compared to British farmers thanks to the rapidly growing market for dairy products in China & low cost of production. </div>
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The cows are milked once a day in an open sided milking 'shed' with the milk being collected by Westland Milk, a farmer-owned co-operative, based in Hokitika. Incidentally products from this plant can be found in the UK under the brand name of <a href="http://www.lakeland.co.uk/7531/EasiYo-Yoghurt-Maker" target="_blank">EasiYo</a>.</div>
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The milking herd, youngstock & beef spend 12 months of the year out at grass & this particular herd is fed little in the way concentrates. The entire milking herd is 'dried off' for one month giving R's family a chance to holiday!</div>
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Well, by early evening the mercury was still in the 80F, so to round of the day nicely, the family speed boat was 'yoked' onto the ute & we all headed off to rather large expanse of water known as <a href="http://www.hokitika.org/places/61/Lake-Kaniere" target="_blank">Lake Kaniere</a>.</div>
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Due to recent drought conditions, the slipway was more exposed than usual, & the pebble beach fairly large.<br />
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Once launched out came the water skis, donut /ringo rings & wakeboards & the next few hours saw us all screaming around the lake in a totally irresponsible manner. It was great!<br />
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<br />muddybootshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01117980616235810426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4474000868330540333.post-59198966835735861252014-02-04T17:03:00.000+00:002014-02-04T17:03:14.028+00:00We Take to the Skies - thanks to the Hokitika Rugby Club Raffle Prize<b><u>Wednesday 30th January 2013</u></b><br />
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<b><u>Rest Day - in & around Hokitika</u></b><br />
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It was great catching up with RM & family. We had last seen R-- way back in 1983 when he was on a Young Farmers Club exchange trip from New Zealand. The previous evening whilst dining on some of their own produced lamb, the telephone rang reminding R & J that they had only one day left to use their raffle prize from the Hokitika Rugby Club Prize Draw. Unfortunately, this was of too short a notice as there was no relief milker booked to allow them an early start. R & J asked if we would like the prize, a flight with <a href="http://wildernesswings.co.nz/scenic-flights/mt-cook-and-glaciers/" target="_blank">Wilderness Wings</a> over Mount Cook & her glaciers. Wow, thank you so much!!</div>
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For being on holiday, we were up with the larks, left R busy doing the morning milking & headed down to Hokitika Airport & the Wilderness Wings Office.</div>
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The weather conditions were ideal. Clear blue skies, light winds & a full Cessna 206. Seemed all the prize winners were taking a last minute ride. After a quick safety brief, seat belts clicked & doors checked, we were rolling down the runway & turning right handed once airborne heading up towards the towering snow covered peaks of the Southern Alps. </div>
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My late father was a keen amateur pilot, & so as a child l spent quite a lot of time messing around in light aircraft, & bouncing about in the turbulent airstreams of the foothills of the Pyrenees, never venturing anywhere near snow capped mountains. So here l was, climbing to 6,000 feet, amongst the mountains & experiencing no bumpiness at all. </div>
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The visibility excellent & you could see for miles & miles. We swooped past the Franz Joseph & Fox Glaciers we climbed & banked around the majestic Mount Cook, we waggled wings at a group of climbers sat having breakfast on one of the snowy peaks of Mount Tasman.</div>
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All too soon, our pilot slowly turned Northwards & we headed back to base flying our downwind leg parallel to Hokitika scanning the ocean for the recent sighting of sharks just of the coast. Like the penguins, they were noticeable by their absence. <br />
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What a way to start the day, what an amazing flight, what an experience, this was going to be one action-packed day!<br />
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Afternoon was a bit more earthbound, a drive up to the totally amazing <a href="http://www.hokitika.org/places/59/Hokitika-Gorge" target="_blank">Hokitika Gorge</a>. A gentle stroll along a well laid track through lush forests of tree ferns, & native bush dripping with mosses, leading down to the brilliant turquoise waters of the gorge itself. </div>
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The day was really hot so it was nice to walk through the cooling shade down to the river & bathing pool. </div>
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A Suspension bridge, carried us over the swirling glacier melt waters below. Now l don't like swing bridges at the best of times & especially so when 2 farmers & farmer's boy start jumping up & down making the wires swing. </div>
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<b><u><span id="goog_1504601571"></span><span id="goog_1504601572"></span><br /></u></b>So far the Rest Day had been far from it, what other exciting things could we all pack into the remains of the day?<b><u><br /></u></b>muddybootshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01117980616235810426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4474000868330540333.post-42247116324204903192014-02-02T11:57:00.001+00:002014-02-02T11:57:15.332+00:00West Coast - Where is everyone?<b><u>Tuesday</u></b><br />
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<b><u>Murchison to Hokitika</u></b><br />
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Off in good time as all vans must vacate motorhome park by 10am. The day's route was to take us to the West Coast & then following the coastline down to farming friends just outside of Hokitika.</div>
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Turning left out of the drive we headed along deserted roads westwards. The twisty road followed the contours of the Buller River, narrow bridges, gorges & an amazing pieces of road blown from the cliff face.</div>
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There was nothing here except outstanding nature. No villages, towns, traffic nothing. We had the roads to ourselves only occasional seeing another vehicle.</div>
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Signs lead off the main road advertising white water rafting & other bare knuckle extreme adventures.<br />
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As the coastal area grew closer, the landscape changed from raging rivers & dense forest to dry scrub brush.</div>
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We finally reached that Tasman Sea, stopping for lunch at Woodpecker Bay. One of the most beautiful places l have as yet to visit. Soft sand strewn with huge chunks of driftwood, curvaceous rocks worn smooth by the constant pounding of the ocean. The beach backed by dense drifts of bright blue agapanthus. There was even a small beach cottage for sale, the first house we had seen since leaving Murchison! </div>
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The weather was again hot, vast blue skies & the deep blues of the ocean which hugged the side of the road as we continued south. Roadside signs warned us of penguins crossing: they were on vacation somewhere in the southern ocean.</div>
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We saw no one, or hardly anyone until we hit the outskirts of Greymouth. People, shops, cars, civilisation at last. South Island is not densely populated & the west coast is l guess the least populated area. There are long drives before you hit a township & garages! How long you ask, well hours like in several!</div>
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Greymouth came & went, the road by now had become straight following the coastal plain, the railway running along side & occasionally crossing the road in some bizarre Kiwi fashion. </div>
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Our route was taking us to Hokitika passing the Glow Worm dell then turning left up past the Westland Milk Plant on out into the flat grasslands alongside Kaniere-Kowhitirangi Road whose back drop was the 'Misty Mountains' or in real life the mighty Southern Alps.</div>
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So here we were to spend a couple of nights, on our friend's dairy farm, pedigree jerseys. A chance catch up on the news & gossip from the past 30 odd years when we had all last met on a Young Farmers exchange visit.</div>
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Total mileage = 149 miles</div>
muddybootshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01117980616235810426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4474000868330540333.post-18587936988572990962014-01-29T14:12:00.000+00:002014-01-29T14:12:11.267+00:00So many Bumblebees <b><u>Monday - <i>South Island</i></u></b><br />
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<b><u>Takaka to Murchison</u></b><br />
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After a good nights sleep & a final hike along the beach, it was time to head back through dairy farming country, re-tracing the previous day's route.<br />
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We made a quick pitstop at the supermarket & garage in Takaka, then began the ascent of the steep Takaka Hill. <br />
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The morning's route had a little more traffic than the previous, milk tankers on their collection route,<br />
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and a traffic queue as we passed route works.<br />
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The climb back over the top to Motueka didn't seem quite as bad as the previous day's. Coming back down to the coastal plains, we stopped at the road side at Riwaka for fresh cherries, deliciously juicy pische pears & fresh fruit ice cream.</div>
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The frozen fruit was added to a vanilla ice cream mix then served, whippy style in a large waffle cone. Yummy!<br />
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Our journey to Murchison involved a right hander in the centre of Motueka, past the airfield, a drive past vineyards & orchards, along river banks, through shady forests. The Motueka Valley Highway, twisted & turned as it ran south, rejoining highway 6 at Kawatiri. Around every corner a new vista, roaring rivers, lush forest & waving grasslands.</div>
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As the day progressed, so did the temperatures. By the time we pulled into the <a href="http://www.murchisonmotorhomepark.co.nz/index.html" target="_blank">Murchison Motorhome Camp</a>, it was melting. Now this site, l guess, was about the best on the tour so far. To the wafting scent of wood smoke, we were given a guided tour of the site by the proud owner. The facilities, all eco-friendly & hence the wood smoke, were really something else, gold star by my reckoning. </div>
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The pitches, all hard standings, were softened with plantings of native plants & shrubs, there was even a bathing pool in on of the eddies on the Buller River, a god send on such a seriously hot day.</div>
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The site had only 6 or so other motorhomes that evening, everyone despite the heat, sat indoors listening to the constant thump, thump, thump as huge pollen-drunk bumble bees hurtled into the sides of their vans. I have never, ever seen so many bumblebees in one place, l guess they were taking advantage of all the pollen & nectar coming from the landscaped gardens surround the motorhome park. An island of pollen in a sea of grassland.</div>
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Today's mileage = 127 miles </div>
<b><u><br /></u></b>muddybootshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01117980616235810426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4474000868330540333.post-83321206984468616482014-01-20T12:52:00.001+00:002014-01-20T12:52:41.595+00:00Across the Takaka Hills & Far, Far Away<b><u>Sunday</u></b><br />
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<u>Nelson to Golden Bay</u><br />
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Contrary to most recommended tourist routes, we continued westward from Nelson driving along, what is classed as, one of the Top Ten NZ Roads to Collingwood, the route taking us through rich fertile valleys & climbing over the rugged beauty of the Takaka Hills.</div>
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The first stage of the drive hugs the coast, passing vast orchards, hop gardens & vineyards, farm shops, micro breweries & ice cream shops. However once we'd passed through Motueka the climb in earnest began.</div>
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The Takaka Valley highways climbs & the road twists & turns to the summit, the views across the countryside never failed to impress, hardly surprising that this area had featured in the film, Lord of the Rings.</div>
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The summit car park offered views across & down to Nelson & the Cook Strait, whilst strewn about in surrounding fields were an odd collection of weirdly shaped stones, a bit like the limestone pavements in the Yorkshire Dales but without the 'pavement' bit.</div>
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The descent from the heights into the fertile Takaka Valley was equally impressive, sweeping hair-pin bends, dramatic vistas, plus the added bonus of hardly any traffic. </div>
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The valley is home to yet more dairy farms, & once again these are on an industrial level. Outside milking barns, or sheds as they are known, long snaking lines of cows walking slowly along to the daily milking, fields of maize & round irrigation pods keeping the pastures lush & green. </div>
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The road hugged the banks of Takaka River eventually bringing us to the only town on the drive, Takaka. The small town has an air of the pixie dust come Glastonbury, seeming to be populated by brightly dressed 'hippies', backpackers & then, farmers.</div>
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We drove on through the town, relieved to have seen at least one petrol station, passing the famous microbrewery come pub <a href="http://www.musselinn.co.nz/" target="_blank">Mussel Inn</a>. </div>
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The evening's night stop was <a href="http://www.goldenbayholidaypark.co.nz/golden-bay-holiday-park/golden-bay-camping/about-golden-bay" target="_blank">Golden bay Holiday Park,</a> accessed via a long, narrow lane, but boy what an overnighter!</div>
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The site was by no means at full capacity & so we were able to park as close to the sandy beach as was possible, with only a few hardy shrubs & bushes between us and the bay. </div>
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So there we sat, on a balmy evening, sipping a rather delicious local Pinot Noir, tucking into a Greek Salad made with NZ olives, watching the sun slowly sink into the Cook Strait.</div>
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Today's mileage = 60 miles</div>
muddybootshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01117980616235810426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4474000868330540333.post-20573668190091474822014-01-18T14:48:00.000+00:002014-01-18T14:48:44.413+00:00New Zealand Part II - South Island<b><u>Week Two - </u></b><b><u>South Island</u></b><br />
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<b><u>Wellington to Nelson via Picton</u></b><br />
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The start of our second week in the Kea motorhome started bright & early with a short drive to the dockside through a maze of roads twizzled around like spaghetti. Sat at harbour side waiting to embark gave us the chance to view our fellow passengers; a mix of lorries & rental vehicles really & all nationalities, though it has to be said that there were a lot of what we supposed to be Japanese, busy taking photos of themselves in a variety of posses.</div>
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The ferry set sail at 9.25am, leaving the sheltered harbour of Wellington & headed out into the notorious Cook Strait, which l guess could be a bit like the North Sea on a bad day, but in our case more like a Mill Pond with a strong tide race.</div>
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The weather improved as the journey progressed. Brilliantly blue sky, cool blue waters and the temperature rising substantially. The scenery was pretty dramatic too. Once the ship had headed into Queen Charlotte's Sound, everybody on board rushed on deck, cameras poised, VCRs at the ready. Forest covered slopes reaching down to the shoreline, small coves & bays & all the while the amazingly coloured sea taking us onward towards Picton. </div>
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As we neared our destination, a sail boat would pass us or a homestead reached only by sea would appear on the shoreline, but civilisation finally caught up with us in the form of reggatta of small dinghies, a sea plane racing down the bay slowly reaching take off speed & finally a rather large cruise ship that completed dwarfed everything in the vicinity.</div>
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Disembarkation went smoothly & turned right out of the port heading along the narrow, twisty, fantastically scenic <a href="http://www.newzealand.com/uk/feature/queen-charlotte-drive/" target="_blank">Queen Charlotte's Drive</a>. <b>Do not miss this drive</b>, the roads are exceptionally quiet, every corner provides another photo opportunity - rugged green hills, unspoilt coves, an abundance of wildflowers, & ok there are bends, a lot of bends if you've driven in the Alps this is nothing.</div>
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Whenever we drove more open farm land, we noted that this was given over to industrial scale dairy farming & we began to see the first of the large, [& by large l mean over 400 cows], herds of cattle.</div>
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Driving through the fishing town of Havelock, look out for the <a href="http://www.themusselpot.co.nz/" target="_blank">Mussel Pot</a>, a fish restaurant dripping with large, green, plastic mussels from, well, everywhere.</div>
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The countryside here on South Island was already noticeably different from North Island, the roads almost deserted & towns & settlements few & far between, the exception being that of Nelson where we put down camp for the night at the <a href="http://www.maitaivmc.co.nz/" target="_blank">Matai Valley Motorcamp</a>. A real character of a place set amongst the tall pine trees close to the Matai River, home to some really weird & unique motorhome conversions l have as yet to come across. The facilities included washing, kitchens, showers etc & a very unusual 'dump' station that was not really user friendly. The site offered wifi which you had to pay for, the cheapest way we quickly discovered was to pay for 24 hours which gave you ample time to surf / skype / facetime.</div>
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Total mileage = 70 miles </div>
muddybootshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01117980616235810426noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4474000868330540333.post-49859695301052907042014-01-09T10:18:00.000+00:002014-01-09T10:18:07.138+00:00Don't forget your ear plugs!<u>Friday</u><br />
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<u>Waikite Valley to Wellington</u><br />
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As l think l have mentioned previously, we did not pre-book anything, the only pre-booking done was the <a href="https://www.interislander.co.nz/" target="_blank">Interislander Ferry</a> , connecting North to South Island & the date booked was Saturday 26th January 2013. So, we had to be in Wellington for the Friday night.</div>
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This was to be our longest drive so far, with perhaps the most diverse of scenery. Driving past the vast inland Lake Taupo with the volcanos clearly visible on the southern shore was pretty awesome, as they say.</div>
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But driving along the almost straight Highway 1, with the peaks of Mount Doom or in real life, Mount Ruapehu towering above the plains of the Tonganiro National park was truly breathtaking. </div>
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As the road slowly wound its way down, the dessert was replaced by farming country dotted with small rural townships, complete with their own cafe culture, remember that New Zealand is the home to the 'flat white', ice cream parlours & sushi bars.<br />
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We stopped for lunch just outside Mangaweka, then having done some earlier reading, drove through the town with cameras poised in readiness to snap the DC3 at it's International Airport: - well actually, the old Dak is about to land but it never does suspended for ever in an airborne state. It is now home to the <a href="http://www.mangaweka.co.nz/home.html" target="_blank">Mangaweka Adventure Company</a> & its cafe.</div>
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River gorges & hills gave way to the plains on the approach to Wellington. Fields of Maize, large herds of dairy cattle, unforgetabull named townships like Bulls brought hysterics to the cab, with shops & businesses all enjoying the pun, How many bulls can you find?</div>
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Eventually after a fairly long drive, through some amazing countryside we pulled into the waterfront motorhome park**, [ think French Aire] in Wellington. We had heard rumours that there was parking on the waterfront from several NZ motorhomers, they had been unable to give us a GPS fix, but there were signposts [small] & we managed to find the park pretty easily, almost the first parking spot in as you enter the city. The park is run by the council, there are electrics, showers etc & providing you remember your ear plugs this place is the business. Ear plugs you ask? Yes, this is a park is in the heart of the 'place to go' waterfront area, the hobbits, dwarves & wizards marching around the top of the Post Office will not help you sleep!</div>
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It was a hot evening here in Wellington. The world & his wife were all making for the waterfront, it was just so very, very hot. Families, office workers, tourists, everyone was out & about, the atmosphere was truly fab! We wandered along the harbour watching boats, buskers & youngsters diving. The pubs & restaurants were all bursting at the seams with happy punters. We joined them, tucking into chicken liver pate with a cognac & fig chutney followed by fish & chips - posh fish & chips l should say.</div>
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As the sun slowly sank behind Wellington, we sat sipping our glasses of Pinot Noir hoping that tomorrow's crossing to Picton would be kind.<br />
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**Wellington Waterfront Motorhome Park<br />
12 Waterloo Quay<br />
Wellington<br />
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Total mileage = 266 milesmuddybootshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01117980616235810426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4474000868330540333.post-70326236535616991042013-12-28T11:38:00.000+00:002013-12-28T11:39:01.869+00:00Sheep & thermal pools<b><u>Thursday</u></b><br />
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<b><u>Rotorua Area</u></b><br />
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It really does help to have contacts, especially in a place like New Zealand. Some friends had given our details to one of their retired farming friends who now lived in Rotorua. We had arranged to meet up with Jim at his bungalow on a rather nice housing estate prior to him taking us on a whistle-stop tour of the area. I should say that he has had quite a bit of past experience showing friends of friends the essential elements of Kiwi life.</div>
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Being farmers where else to go but<a href="http://www.agrodome.co.nz/" target="_blank"> the Agrodome </a>. Jim had booked 3 tickets for the morning's all things sheep show, yes it is a booking visit, the place was heaving with coach loads of visitors all streaming in to take their seats. Seated directly in front of us were 3 coach loads of retired farmers from the mid-west [USA] to our right coach loads of Koreans. The site & building look pretty much as you would expect county agricultural show grounds back home to look & smell with a strong sheep aroma circulating through the building.</div>
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Now don't get me wrong, the show is very interesting. All breeds found in NZ parade onto the stage then take their place on a podium at the rear. Our host, dressed in suitable attire, proceeded to compere the show. He explained the variety of breeds, he sheared a sheep in minutes & perhaps the most interesting bit was the use of the dogs, the normal collie type then the star, the NZ huntaway, a barking sheep dog that not only barks continuously but also jumps onto the backs & runs across the herd of sheep. Truly amazing. Other interesting bits included a dairy demonstration with active audience participation, although one of the US farmers didn't play ball & when it was his turn to hand milk, proceeded to squirt milk directly at the compere who wasn't exactly chuffed! </div>
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Our afternoon was taken up by a visit to <a href="http://www.waimangu.co.nz/" target="_blank">Waimangu Volcanic Park</a>, a site recommended by Jim as a 'not to over the top' tourist attraction. If you travel to Rotorua, come here it is amazing. The scenery is stunning, the volcanic pools amazing, the boat trip awesome. Yes, there is some walking [downhill] & yes it is hot, these are thermal springs, but if you aren't keen on walking there is a bus that will take you down to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Rotomahana" target="_blank">Lake Rotomahana</a> & its boat trip.</div>
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The walk down to lake takes you through lush undergrowth & past Echo Crater, Frying Pan Lake all steam & bubbling mud.<br />
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Steps lead you up to the amazingly blue waters of Inferno Crater, perhaps one of the most outstanding views, that blue colour was just something else!</div>
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Interestingly, there were very few people wandering about, the cafe & shop at the way in was pretty full so by the time we reached the bottom lake & boat cruise there were probably no more that about 10 of us?</div>
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Now, you must do the boat trip. The lake is vast & the constant commentary fascinating whilst the geysers are well worth working out how to turn your camera into video mode.</div>
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The lake is stocked with rainbow trout whilst graceful black swans glide gracefully across the deep, dark waters. <br />
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We were the last trip of the day, so had the opportunity to speak with the owners who recommended, for our overnight stop, the campsite at <a href="http://www.hotpools.co.nz/Waikite-Valley-Thermal-Pools/Home_IDL=2_IDT=1635_ID=9595_.html" target="_blank">The Waikite Valley Thermal Pools</a>. Admittedly it was flagged in our tourist map but we had thought to head on down towards Taupo. We decided to give it a try. Amazing, the campsite is small but, there are those thermal pools which were pure decadence. The campground facilities include a cafe cum restaurant whilst the showers use the thermal hot waters & the bonus bit is - unlimited use of the thermal pools. If in the area you really should stop here. </div>
muddybootshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01117980616235810426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4474000868330540333.post-73754570649861008262013-12-21T13:49:00.001+00:002013-12-21T13:49:14.994+00:00Off the Beaten Track?<b><u>Wednesday</u></b><br />
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<b><u>Omana Regional Park to Rotorua</u></b><br />
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Before upping sticks & moving on, we enjoyed walking around the headland on which is the Regional Park. The site is old grassland kept short by the grazing of sheep. Part of the site houses a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/P%C4%81" target="_blank">Maori Pa</a>, in this instant a selection of earth mounds & banks set on the edge of the Park overlooking the Tamaki Straights.</div>
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Before leaving the Uk we had a list of contacts, friends together with friends of friends, so before hitting the road southwards it was a case of ringing Jim, who lives in Rotorua & a farming friend of another farming friend, to arrange a meet up the following morning. With this sorted, we left the park & headed along the North Road, southwards.</div>
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The route took us through the rural & somewhat equestrian orientated town of Clevedon then along the coast road of the Firth Of Thames. This was the first time that we had the roads to ourselves, we hardly saw another person let alone another vehicle. The countryside was hilly dotted here and there with clapperboard farmsteads, small fields of maize, some dairy and quite a few, what looked like, wild flocks of turkeys. </div>
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Our route to Rotorua took us onto Route 27, a long, straight, flat road bordered by drainage channels, the Waikato Plains. Fields of grass, maize & cereals flanked the highway, which after perhaps 20 minutes or so drove us to leave main road & head across towards Te Aroha by the aptly names Swamp Road. </div>
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Well, what a difference, the road wound its way along the base of the Kaimai Ranges, whose forest covered slopes reared up from the plains. Seeing a sign post to the <a href="http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/tracks-and-walks/bay-of-plenty/tauranga/wairere-falls-track/" target="_blank">Wairere Falls</a> reminded us that it was about lunch time, so turning off the Old Te Aroha road we headed for the car park at the start of the walk or Tramp [as the locals call hiking]. Today, we hadn't seen any other hire vans or tourists & our lunch spot was just the same. We were the only ones there apart from the bus conversion [see below]. I should at this point say that many of the NZ motorhome club members [the red badge indicate membership] spend a lot of money, not on the latest German motorhome but in converting something large into their own, personalised camper. Most use the services of a specialist yacht fitter. Unfortunately, the owner of this one was away in the mountains so we didn't get the opportunity to have a nose.</div>
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As lunch time turned into early afternoon & with plates & tea cups packed away, we headed onwards on our journey. We did notice that there did seem to be rather a large number of dairy herds as opposed to sheep - more on this later.</div>
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The scenery passed through forests, along roads flanked by tree ferns, twisting streams & rivers, then back onto the main road system & the aptly named Thermal Explorer Highway which took us past the Agrodome Leisure Park to the shores of <a href="http://www.rotorua.nz.com/lake-rotorua.aspx" target="_blank">Lake Rotorua</a>. We took the northern route around the aiming to stay at the <a href="http://www.lakerotoitiholidaypark.co.nz/" target="_blank">Lake Rotoiti</a> campsite situated right in the water's edge. Unfortunately the site when we arrived was packed to the gunnels & with only a couple of pitches left decided to try closer to Rotorua itself. We eventually pulled into the almost deserted All Seasons Top 10 holiday park which was on the final approach to Rotorua Airport. The site was clean, well maintained, the staff hilarious & the airport was not exactly Heathrow more like the Marie Celeste. </div>
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Today's mileage = 166 miles</div>
muddybootshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01117980616235810426noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4474000868330540333.post-47962299354020470062013-12-14T12:17:00.002+00:002013-12-14T12:17:20.782+00:00king fish for supper<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b><u>Tuesday</u></b></div>
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<b><u>Russell Top Ten Holiday Park to Omana Regional Park</u></b></div>
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Top Ten Holiday Parks can be found all over New Zealand & just to make sure that you don't miss them, they advertise on the Holiday Radio just as you approach the locality. Anyway, the formula is pretty much the same, motorhome service point, electrics, washing facilities, possibly a swimming pool, washrooms, outside kitchen / BBQ & here on the coast parking for your game fishing boat together with a fish preparation area so that you can gut & chop up that fresh catch of the day.</div>
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When we arrived on the Monday afternoon, the fish prep area was a hive of activity, blood, guts & scales with the aroma of so 'fresh they were almost swimming' fish! Later that evening whilst exploring the site, which incidentally was fairly busy, Husband returned clutching a large sheet of greaseproof paper out of which was loling half a side of kingfish. My first thoughts, were WOW-why then who followed by a eek. The fish had been presented by a holidaymaker who had been unable to light the outdoor kitchen BBQ, in order to cook his catch. Not a bad swop infact.</div>
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Now here l had to improvise, one of the downsides of our fairly well equipped motorhome rental was a lack of outdoor cooking utensils; ok so no BBQ wasn't a problem as all the sites had on-site ones, ranging from top of the range to basic, but this early into our trip l didn't have things that you take for granted in your own Motorhome, usually found somewhere behind the silver windscreen shield & ramps. Anyway, l did have foil so after a quick carving into slap-sized steaks then adding freshly chopped red chilli, ginger, garlic & coriander which l then wrapped loosely in the foil & allowed to steam on the BBQ. The evening's supper was delicious, if l say so myself, we sat outside tucking into the catch of the day all washed down by a fabulously fresh NZ sauvignon blanc.</div>
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As with UK sites, you are welcome to stop until 12 noon before moving on & with the park being within walking distance of the small town of Russell we took advantage of this & made our way down to the harbour front. Russell is a tourist honey pot, as they say up in Yorkshire, plenty of boat trips to see dolphins, plenty of boat trips to catch fish, sailing boats, sailing dinghies plus the odd cruise ship moored in the bay. </div>
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You do need to keep an eye out for these cruise ships, especially as by mid-morning the jolly-boats are being lowered ready to bring holidaymakers ashore, these towns are not large & you really don't want to be stuck amongst hordes of photo-snapping tourists engulfing the immediate area. We enjoyed exploring Russell, but left as the first of the boats put into the jetty. </div>
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Our route took us back across by ferry to Route 11 then rejoining Route 1 at Kawakawa. The visibility & weather was much clearer on our journey southwards, passing through bustling main streets & farming country. </div>
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At around lunch time we turned off the main route south, heading for Waipu, our tourist radio had filled us in with the local history & all things Scottish, [Waipu was a Scottish settlement], again it was a fairly busy town, but we continued on through heading towards the sea & parking at the end of a track overlooking Waipu Cove.<br />
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As is the case with motorhoming, you stop for lunch, wash up then hit the road. Wherever we travel we try to finish the day's journey around 3'ish. This means that you can normally find a pitch easily & can chill out for the rest of the afternoon or do some exploring.<br />
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Using the very informative tourist map, we plotted the GPS location into the sat-nav, [which was situated in the rear view mirror]. The end destination was to be <a href="http://regionalparks.aucklandcouncil.govt.nz/omana/Omana%20SCC%20parking%20area" target="_blank">Omana Regional Park</a> which had a designated area for self contained campers. Unlike here in the UK, all campervans have to be certified that they are self-contained & carry the relevant sticker announcing the fact. The map info also carried contact details & this one was one that you had to pre-book as a code was required to actually enter the motorhome park. It was rather strange really, l rang the number which puts you through to Auckland Council then you call is placed with the regional park department who then take your details & card payment. Wierd. </div>
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We had a good view of Auckland City as we travelled to our destination, the view from the Nippon-Clipon was pretty amazing though the southside of Auckland was busy, very busy in fact. It seemed to take for ages as we crawled across the city towards our night's stop. Even the last few miles of bending rural roads that headed out to the coast seemed endless, but sure as eggs are eggs, the GPS duly delivered us at Omara Park though the code that Auckland council gave us did not let us open the entry gate. Patience at this time was sorely tried. The Telephone help number was on answerphone, no-one was about & we had paid for a night's parking. Eventually, a car drove past us heading up to the campervan park, we sneakily tucked in behind them as he unlocked then drove through the entrance.</div>
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The track continued along through the grassy parkland to a rather hilly & slopey fenced area which was the campervan park. No facilities here bar a long drop loo. Wild Camping with recycling bins and we were expected. A rather boho looking elderly Kiwi introduce himself with the words, 'aha the oppressors' to which l replied well, my ancestors were persecuted by the Romans & the Plantagenets [that's the Welsh ancestry bit] whilst the huguenot ones might have been Cathars. He did laugh, he hadn't thought of that one. Mind you, he was joking as was l & on a serious note, he was extremely helpful on all things motorhoming New Zealand style. 'Look out for the Motorhomes with a <a href="http://www.nzmca.org.nz/" target="_blank">round red badge</a>'!</div>
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Today's mileage: = 168 miles</div>
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